A.R.E. CX Revo Leaking at Front Bulkhead? Here's the Fix
A water leak at the front bulkhead of your A.R.E. CX Revo truck cap is frustrating, but it’s also one of the most common issues we hear about — and fortunately one of the easiest to solve. Most leaks at the front edge trace back to either a compressed seal along the bulkhead gasket or a clogged drain channel that redirects water into the cab area instead of safely away from it.
In this guide, we’ll walk you through diagnosing exactly where the water is entering, the tools you’ll need, and the step-by-step truck cap leaking fix that works for the CX Revo’s front bulkhead design. Whether you’re seeing puddles on the bed rails or drips inside the cap near the front corners, the repair typically takes less than an hour and requires no special skills.
Why the Front Bulkhead Is the Most Likely Leak Point
The front bulkhead on the CX Revo sits flush against the truck cab, separated only by a continuous foam gasket that runs the width of the cap. Over time, that gasket compresses from the cap’s weight and from vibration during normal driving. Once the foam loses its original thickness, even a small gap allows water to seep through during rain or a car wash.
The CX Revo’s bulkhead design also incorporates two drainage channels at the lower corners, meant to carry any moisture that does reach the seal down and out beneath the bed rails. If those channels fill with dirt, leaves, or old sealant residue, water backs up and finds the path of least resistance — which is usually straight into the bed or along the inside front wall of the cap. Clearing those channels is the first step in any truck cap leaking fix for this model.
Tools and Materials You'll Need
What to Gather Before You Start
You’ll need a few basic items: a roll of closed-cell foam weatherstripping (we recommend 1/2-inch or 3/4-inch thickness depending on the gap you find), rubbing alcohol or a degreaser for cleaning the old adhesive, a utility knife or scissors to cut the new foam to length, and a flathead screwdriver or pick tool to clear the drain channels.
Optional but helpful: a garden hose to test the seal after the repair, and a tube of silicone sealant if you discover any cracks in the bulkhead fiberglass itself. Replacement parts like striker plates and additional sealing accessories are available if you find damage beyond normal wear, but most leaks respond to a simple gasket replacement and channel cleaning.
Step-by-Step Repair Process
Remove the Old Gasket
Start by removing the cap from the truck bed — you’ll need a second person to lift it safely. Once it’s off and resting face-down on sawhorses or a padded work surface, peel away the old foam gasket from the front bulkhead edge. Most of it will come off in one piece, but adhesive residue will remain. Clean the entire bulkhead surface with rubbing alcohol until no sticky film is left.
Clear the Drain Channels
At each lower corner of the bulkhead, you’ll see a small slot or channel that directs water downward. Use a flathead screwdriver or a stiff wire to push out any packed debris. Flush each channel with water from a spray bottle to confirm it drains freely. If water pools instead of running out the bottom, keep clearing until flow is restored.
Install the New Foam Seal
Measure the width of the bulkhead and cut your new foam weatherstripping to match, adding an extra inch at each end for overlap. Peel the adhesive backing and press the foam firmly along the entire front edge, ensuring it sits evenly without gaps. The foam should compress slightly when you reinstall the cap, forming a tight seal against the cab — but it shouldn’t be so thick that the cap won’t sit flush on the bed rails.
Reinstall and Test
With help, lift the cap back onto the truck bed and clamp it down as usual. Run a garden hose over the front edge for several minutes, simulating heavy rain. Check inside the cap and along the bed rails for any new drips. If water still appears, the foam may be too thin or the channels may need a second clearing. Adjust thickness or recheck drainage before calling the repair complete.
When to Replace the Bulkhead Itself
In rare cases, the bulkhead fiberglass may have cracked or warped, especially if the cap was over-tightened or involved in a minor collision. Inspect the entire front panel for hairline cracks, particularly near the mounting bolt holes. A cracked bulkhead won’t seal properly no matter how fresh the gasket is.
If you do find damage, replacement bulkhead panels and full installation instructions are listed in the A.R.E. parts catalog. Most owners can swap the panel in an afternoon using basic hand tools, but if the crack is small and stable, a bead of marine-grade silicone along the fracture line can buy you months or years before a full panel swap becomes necessary.
Keeping Your CX Revo Dry for the Long Haul
A front bulkhead leak on your A.R.E. CX Revo is inconvenient, but it’s also a straightforward repair that most truck owners can handle in a single afternoon. By replacing the compressed foam gasket and clearing the drainage channels, you restore the seal that keeps rain and wash water where it belongs — outside the cap.
Regular maintenance matters too. Every six months, pull the cap off and inspect the bulkhead gasket for compression or damage, and flush the drain channels with a hose to prevent buildup. A few minutes of preventive care now saves you from dealing with rust, soaked cargo, or a more expensive bulkhead panel replacement down the road.
Common Questions About CX Revo Front Bulkhead Leaks
The easiest test is to spray the front edge of the cap with a hose while someone watches inside the bed. If water appears immediately near the front corners or along the cab wall, the bulkhead seal is the culprit. Leaks from the side windows or rear door will show up farther back and usually only during driving rain, not a stationary spray.
Silicone alone won’t work as a primary seal because it doesn’t provide the cushioning needed to absorb vibration and minor cab-to-bed movement. However, a thin bead of silicone applied on top of new foam weatherstripping can add extra water resistance if you live in an area with frequent heavy rain. Just don’t rely on silicone by itself.
Double-check that the new foam is thick enough to compress when the cap is clamped down. If it’s too thin, there’s still a gap. Also confirm the cap is sitting level on the bed rails — a twisted or misaligned cap won’t seal evenly no matter how good the gasket is. Finally, inspect the bulkhead itself for cracks or warping that might need a panel replacement.
Most gaskets last three to five years depending on climate and how often you remove and reinstall the cap. If you notice water intrusion, compressed or crumbling foam, or visible gaps when the cap is installed, it’s time for a new seal. An annual visual check during routine cleaning can catch wear before it becomes a leak.
The general process — cleaning the old gasket, clearing drain channels, and installing fresh weatherstripping — applies to nearly every A.R.E. model. However, bulkhead dimensions and channel placement vary. The mPulse series, for example, uses a slightly different drainage design at the lower corners, so check your model’s specific layout before ordering replacement materials.